Decay of Random Waves on Non-Monotonic Profiles
A model is presented to calculate the decay of random waves in the surf zone with special focus on non-monotonic profiles. A wave-by-wave approach is employed to derive a model that requires...
Propagation of Linear Gravity Waves Over Slowly Varying Depth and Currents
A detailed derivation of some kinematic and dynamic properties linear surface gravity waves-current interaction. The obtained expressions, which are exact within the framework of linear...
The Development of a Wave Data Analysis Standard for a National Wave Measurement Program
The Field Wave Gaging Program (FWGP) at the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers' Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) collects and analyzes wave data from around the U.S. coastline to contribute...
Comparisons of Directional Wave Analysis Methods
Four methods analysing directional wave spectrum were testes and compared through numerical simulation. The four methods are (i) the truncated Fourier series (TFS), (ii) the Longuet-Higgins...
The Re-derivation of the NDBC Wind-Wave Algorithm
The National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) currently manages a network of 57 moored buoys and approximately 7 Coastal-Marine Automated Network stations on off shore platforms which transmit...
A Second-Generation Wave Model for Coastal Wave Prediction
A second-generation numerical wave model, WINDWAVE, has been developed for wave prediction in coastal regions. The modal is based on the numerical integration of the energy balance equation...
Numerical Modeling of Waves in Harbors
The numerical wave model HARBD has been used extensively for estimating waves in harbors. The model is used to simulate laboratory tests of long waves in a rectangular harbor with variable...
Experimental Study of Undertow and Turbulence Intensity Under Irregular Waves in the Surf Zone
Experiments are performed in a two-dimensional wave tank with a sloping beach. Irregular waves are generated and the water particle velocity is measured in the surf zone with a laser Doppler...
Physical Modelling of Multidirectional Waves
A sixty-segment wave generator has been used since 1985 at the Coastal Engineering Laboratory of the National Research Council (NRC) of Canada to generate multidirectional waves, and study...
A Spectral Wave Model for the Coastal Zone
Spectral wave models that represent the evolution of the waves on a grid superior in several respects to conventional wave ray models. Spectral models on a grid have been developed for...
Shoaling of Wave Spectra in Front of Reflective Structures
Breakwater and jetty design depend in part on the incident significant wave height expected to reach the structure. This height is not always known and must be estimated from a deepwater...
Waves Propagating on an Adverse Jet
A laboratory investigated was conducted of the propagation of waves on an adverse three-dimensional jet. The problem which was simulated was the ebb-tide flow from a tidal inlet into a...
The Time Dependent Ray Method for Calculation of Wave Transformation on Water of Varying Depth and Current
This focuses on an aspect of the numerical calculation of wave refraction using the ray tracing or the semi-Lagrangian approach. the conventional ray method for steady state depth and...
Wave Run-Up and Reflection on a Permeable Sea Wall
The swash oscillation on a sloping seawall made of step-shaped concrete blocks, waves and water particle velocity in front of the seawall were measured. It was inferred that incident waves...
An Offshore Island Wave Sheltering Model
The wave climate along Southern California Coastal area is greatly modified by the existing systems of natural islands shown. As deep water wave approach the nearshore area, they generally...
Evolutionary Fourier Analysis of Wave Data
A new method is presented for analyzing nonstationary water level height time series. The usual assumption of pseudo-stationary intervals is avoided and the wave spectra can be changing...
A New Correction Procedure for Shipborne Wave Recorder Data
A new correction procedure for Shipborne Wave Recorder (SBWR) wave height and spectral data is described. The method is based on a reassessment of the available frequency response measurements...
Extensive Comparison of Directional Wave Analysis Methods From Gauge Array Data
In order to settle an efficient operational wave gauge array for estimating directional wave spectrum, several directional analysis methods are implemented and compared. These methods...
Nonlinear Effects on Wave Envelope and Phase
The representation of second-order random waves is examined in terms of the effect of second-order nonlinearities on the wave envelope and phase. Theoretical expressions describing the...
Modeling Bottom Friction in Wind-Wave Models
Effects of bottom friction in wind-wave models are investigated, with an emphasis on wave-induced bottom roughnesses (moveable-bed effects). A state-of-the-art bottom friction model is...
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